Comfort is the new priority of Milan Men’s Fashion Week
Italia

Comfort is the new priority of Milan Men’s Fashion Week

From Salvatore Ferragamo’s “comfort chic” to Versace’s new cosiness, here is what comfort means for Italian labels

According to South China Morning Post, "cosy and warm was the overriding theme of Milan Men's Fashion Week - autumn-winter 2015.

As usual, Italian designers dominated Milan's catwalk: Prada, Missoni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta and Versace emerged as the most appreciated labels.

Miuccia Prada's collection was a black-on-black one, and her creations gave the impression of being focused on creating a bridge among man and woman. A short-sleeved jacket for man was transformed into a dress for woman; another man's jacket made of nylon in a stunning part dress with a beautiful belt to refine it, and each model maintained its original modern and elegant touch.

Missoni was impressive for the oriental touch of its new collection: ethic tunics, tops, geometrical shapes, deep V-neck sweaters, and a great mixture of grey and blue shades.

"Comfort chic" was Salvatore Ferragamo's leitmotiv, and its symbol beautiful never ending scarves. Beyond scarves, the Italian label surprised the audience with its animal touch: geese, buffaloes, zebras and dragonflies are only some of the animals making Ferragamo's creations alive, and unique.

Bottega Veneta's masterpiece for this year, instead, is a jacket. A very special jacket we should say, as it comes "in surprising and pleasing shades of purple, dusty rose and green and is layered over knitwear and worn with elastic-waist trousers". This kind of jacket perfectly explains the label's priorities for this year, that is offering something that is both comfortable and unique, so personal and able to accommodate clients' own style. At the same time, contrasting colours (purple vs rust, aqua green vs yellowish green, salmon pink vs camel) allowed the label to also maintain its own personal touch in all pieces.

Versace was unexpectedly described as "cosy": its traditional heavy application and short cuts have indeed being replaced by long cashmere knitwear and fitted knit leggings. Pushing clients to wonder if a new fashion revolution has just started.

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Claudia Astarita

Amo l'Asia in (quasi) tutte le sue sfaccettature, ecco perché cerco di trascorrerci più tempo possibile. Dopo aver lavorato per anni come ricercatrice a New Delhi e Hong Kong, per qualche anno osserverò l'Oriente dalla quella che è considerata essere la città più vivibile del mondo: Melbourne. Insegno Culture and Business Practice in Asia ad RMIT University,  Asia and the World a The University of Melbourne e mi occupo di India per il Centro Militare di Studi Strategici di Roma. Su Twitter mi trovate a @castaritaHK, via email a astarita@graduate.hku.hk

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